Norikura Kogen is two places at once: a 1,500m onsen plateau and a 3,026m volcano you can reach by bus. How to make sense of both, when to come, and the four walks that earn their distance.
Kanazawa is not strictly a Japan Alps city — it is 23 minutes east on the Sea of Japan coast — but it is the natural pairing for any Japan Alps trip. Kenrokuen Garden, the Maeda castle, three surviving geisha districts, the Nagamachi samurai quarter, 99% of Japan gold leaf, and a SANAA-designed contemporary art museum in a compact two-day centre.
Narai-juku is the longest-preserved Edo-period post town in Japan — a 1km street of 41 surviving 19th-century buildings on the old Nakasendo highway. Stay overnight in one of the working ryokan to have the village after 4:30pm, walk the Torii Pass to Yabuhara, and browse Kiso lacquerware where it is actually made.
Kamikochi is a 15km protected river valley at 1,500m in the Northern Alps. Private cars banned since 1975, open mid-April to mid-November. Here is the access from Matsumoto and Takayama, the three pond walks (Taisho-ike, Kappa-bashi, Myojin-ike), the Hotaka and Yari trailhead status, the Imperial Hotel and the lodge cluster, the morning photography window, and the Walter Weston connection.
There are four ways into the Japan Alps from outside the region — the Hokuriku Shinkansen to Toyama, the Azusa Limited Express to Matsumoto, the Hida Limited Express to Takayama via Nagoya, and the Nohi Bus from Kanazawa. This is the route-by-route breakdown with current times, prices, the inter-city connections inside the loop, and which JR Pass actually pays off.
Shiojiri’s Narai-juku is the longest preserved Edo-period post town in Japan, and the lacquerware workshops at Kiso-Hirasawa next door are still working. Plus the wineries on the Kikyogahara plateau and the original Nakasendo trail over the Torii Pass. Stay overnight in Narai for the village after 4pm.
Azumino is not Japan’s Switzerland and it’s not the wasabi capital of the country. What it is: a quiet farming plain at the foot of the Hotaka range, with one excellent wasabi farm, an early-20th-century sculpture museum, an Engishiki shrine, and 200km of cycling-friendly back roads. Half a day to a day, plus the option of Nakabusa Onsen overnight.















